Which is a remarkable feat, all things considered: 35 days at sea in a container, past Ormuz and Malacca, followed by a frantic ride through the Mong Kok protests and Causeway Bay traffic in a mini-van. But we can all testify to the fact that Marcel Joubert’s Côte du Py reached us in perfect condition, without the help of sulphites. The man belongs to a new breed of genius, bent on attaining perfection through reverse-engineering (ungeneering?), an artist of the less is more.

The evening started well enough, with the New World paying a compliment to the Old, when Richard enthusiastically embraced the Pouilly-Fûmé version of sauvignon.

But when a little later the Frenchman erupted, with volcanic sincerity, “Le Côte du Rhône, je m’abonne!” (“I’m subscribing to the Côte du Rhône!”), I knew Alexandra was on a winning streak.

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May the future hold plenty more opportunities to pour libations to Tin Hau together!

Photo: Marcel Joubert’s vines on the Côte du Py, Morgon (Beaujolais)